A nation of talkers

Took this shot inside a BRT bus. It made me realise that we're a nation of talkers. Hence, the sign says No hawking (because we realise that you folks are always trying to sell things to passengers inside our bus); No preaching (because we know you're always trying to convert others in that holier than thou manner) and No advertising (because you always like to disturb others with your loud lifestyle).

Eyo festival

When the Eyo masquerades come out to play, praise singers follow their trail. Beautiful women turn out in their best, because it's an opportunity for them to shine.
The arcade is filled to the brim and Lagosians proudly celebrate their heroes.

Dateline: Saturday April 25
Venue: Tafawa Balewa Square, Lagos

The city of Lagos celebrated its most famous traditional event, the outing of the Eyo Masques. It's usually held in honour of a recently dead influential Lagos indigene. This time it was for TOS Benson.

It was my first time of seeing the ceremony because it was the first time the Lagos government was beginning to see how it can be used to encourage massive tourism in the state. So we all travelled to the TBS on Lagos Island to witness the spectacle of the Eyo. Dressed in white flowing gowns, a hat and a stick, each group represents a ruling house or iga. They are differentiated by the colour of their hats. They dance around the city chanting ritual songs while praying for the purification of the land.

The Philosopher

Knowledge really is power, otherwise try ignorance

Kokoro the blind drummer

I return to Tinubu Square in today's post with this statue of Lagos' popular blind minstrel Kokoro the Drummer. This statue was raised in honour of the minstrel who died in January. He was 83 years old. Here's a link to read more about the life of the minstrel who became blind early in life and turned to music to earn a living.

Nights of the creaking bed

Author Toni Kan held a public presentation and reading of his new books, a collection of short stories Nights of the creaking bed, and poetry Songs of absence and despair at the Terra Kulture, Victoria Island on Saturday.

The title story Nights of the creaking bed is a noirish story of how a boy discovers his widowed mother's lover dead on her bed with his naked erect manhood. The first line of the story: "My mother was a kept woman."

It's mostly dark tales about city life in Lagos.

It makes good, easy reading. Toni describes himself as a happy writer who creates sad stories. He has a refreshing take on the Nigerian experience. Here's a link to his publisher's website to learn more about him and order a copy, perhaps.


Here he autographs a copy of the book for me with the inscription, "From one artist to another".

Wings of Liberty

Inside the refurbished Tinubu Square in the heart of Lagos Island is this fountain called Wings of Liberty. I was about to take a shot when these kids asked me if they could pose. Never say never, so I told them to go ahead.

Tinubu Square

Madam Efunroye Tinubu, ancestor of the immediate past governor of the state was a leader of women. The square had been in disrepair for a number of years before it was rebuilt two years ago. It adds a lot of beauty to down town Lagos Island now. Many tourists now visit it on a daily basis. Entry is free.

Used book market

There's a thriving used book market on Lagos Island, at CMS Bus stop close to Broad Street. Been there for many years, at least the man in the shot, Christian, has been trading there for almost 15 years.

I once bought a copy of George Orwell's 1984 from him. It came in handy as I was writing about Nigeria's version of Big Brother back in 2006.

There's threat to their continued stay there though with the recent efforts of the Lagos government to remove all selling and trading activities that have given a bad image to the city over the years.

So the book sellers have had to retreat into a built up motor park where city dwellers hardly get to see them because Lagosians are always in a hurry.

Ironically, newspaper vendors are still allowed to trade along the street. Which is better, newspapers or books?

I still have my 1984 from 2006 but cannot locate the papers I bought on Sunday!

The greatest smile

Easter Monday, morning. My niece poses with plates of scrambled eggs, Lagos style with onions, tomatoes and fresh red pepper. She's an ever willing model for my photo shoots. I'm beginning to have feelings that she might take up modeling, if her parents agree. Here she has two chocolate satchets draped across her chest making it look like she's wearing a dress.

And you can never miss her huge gap-toothed smile, signs of growing up.

Go Gunners!!!

Took this photo on the window of a bus. It is the logo of London's Arsenal FC. I've been a supporter of the club for almost ten years now. They go into a second leg quarter final match against Spain's Villareal tonight at the Emirates Stadium in North London. I'll be glued to my TV set, watching and praying under my breath for victory.

Divine intervention needed

This sign is advertising the European Champions League quarter final matches taking place tonight and tomorrow. The owner of this viewing centre is obviously a Manchester United fan and a Muslim. He leaves a prayer on the board: "Alah (sic) help Man U".

Man U will need a lot of prayers as they go into their second leg tie against FC Porto in O'Porto, Portugal where no English team has ever won.

Like in many other parts of Africa, European football teams are popular in Lagos and other Nigerian cities.

Easter at Bunny's!

This is Bunny's, a restaurant located somewhere in Akute, outskirts of Lagos. It's definitely a place to be this Easter. Where better to get Easter bunnies than at Bunny's?

They've got great food, I've tried it.

Happy Easter to everyone out there. Joyeux Pacques!

Sterling Towers

Sterling Bank's HQ. One of the many high rises that belong to the mega banks on the Lagos Island. Many of them have seen their share prices plummet on the stock exchange in recent times a result of the global economic crises.

Many people are out of jobs now and many more are afraid what tomorrow will bring. Sometimes you wonder if globalisation isn't a curse after all.

Seun Kuti in Accra

Son of FELA, Seun Kuti was in Accra last Tuesday as part of a 13-city tour of West Africa with his 14-man Egypt 80 Band. Nice music, as usual, political as ever and it was really nice to meet him in person. Humble dude, he opened his hotel room for me unannounced quite late when I went seeking for an interview.

He is presntly promoting his maiden album Many Things which came out last year. He performed his own songs as well as his father's big hits Army Arrangement, Suffering and Smiling, etc to the delight of the multicultural audience.

I first saw him perform in Lagos in 2005. His act has since matured.

"Afrobeat is not just another genre of music" he told me. "Afrobeat is a movement".

Personally, I think Afrobeat is like listening to Adams Oshiomhole's political speeches during his labour days on a dance floor. It is intense.

Football to die for

Lats Sunday February 8 I was at the Baba Yara Stadium, Kumasi in Ghana to watch the biggest football league rivalry in West Africa. It was a match between Accra Hearts of Oak and Kumasi's Asante Kotoko. Game ended 2-1 in favour of the visitors Hearts.

But there was much more to it. In 2001, 126 fans lost their lives in a stadium stampede involving both teams. This time around, many fans fainted and it's reported that as many as four fans may have died due to dehydration. I was there with my new Nikon D40 and I took some very painful pictures of fans collapsing under the searing 40 degree heat.

At that moment in time, water became like gold as many were willing to kill for it. Only the strong could survive. Men of the fire services had to be drafted to spray water into the stands when bottled water ran out.

I almost passed out myself while taking shots in the press of bodies.

Change comes to Ghana

After several months of electioneering campaigns, Ghana finally declared presidential election results a couple of hours ago and I was on the streets to see the people jubiliate because the party which promised change to the country has won the polls. Professor John Evans Atta-Mills is the new leader. Here people rejoice at Oxford Street, Osu in the heart of Accra drinking and dancing.

Travelers of the African continent

Last Thursday I finally met in person Chioma Ogwuegbu of www.celebrateafrica.net who alongside her sister Oluchi have been traveling across Africa by road since July. We met up at Accra Mall's Rhapsody's before setting out for Baze Lounge where an underground artists society thrives every Thursday night.

Both ladies have been doing something which many Africans haven't been doing, not because they haven't thought about it but because of a fear of the unknown. They have both traveled across 12 countries in the West Afican region on their first round of a continent-wide tour. They regaled me with a lot of stories about ancient African cities like Timbuktu, Mopti, Ouaga, and Freetown as they experienced it on their journey. They hope that many other young Africans will begin to find time to explore the beauty of the continent.

"Africa's people are its greatest asset" Chioma told me. For Oluchi, the women of Senegal are the most elegant in the world.

Check out their website for some photos and read their blog. They plan to embark on a second leg of their journey next year. This time round will see them going to East and southern Africa.

Do not despise them

It is election season in Ghana where I am at the moment and anything can happen during campaigns. This is just an example.

Our Obama moment

In the office yesterday, we didn't pop champagne, but we had our Obama moment serving some coke round in the library and generally discussing the new world order which America has set in motion. At once, everyone felt like an American, even though most of us had never been inside an American embassy to apply for a visa not to talk of visiting America.

So I suggested to the other guys that we pose for a picture with the day's papers to etch that day in memory and history. It is the result of today's post. Our vintage Obama moment.

The Three Elders of Lagos

In Yoruba, Agba Meta, the Three Elders of Lagos are always on hand to welcome every visitor to Lagos along the Lagos-Benin Expressway. The statues are replicas of the traditional Lagos White Cap chiefs and the stand more than 12 feet high.

According to popular folklore, they each have a different message for everyone coming into the metropolis: O gbodo ridin (thou shalt not be stupid), O gbodo suegbe (thou shalt not be slow), O gbodo ya mugun l'Eko (thou shalt not allow thyself to be taken for a fool) in Lagos.

Lagos is a place for the strong, hence, the poignant words of advice.,